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Monthly Archives: July 2016

Know Common Problems when Installing Wallpaper

wallpaperWallpaper is a key factor in making your home a comfortable, welcoming space. However, installing wallpaper can be a very tedious task in the process of remodeling your home. It can be even more tedious with the problems that come with it. All of those problems can be prevented by following the proper guidelines. Here are some of the common problems and solutions in installing wallpaper in your home.

Holes and Tears

This can become a problem as wallpaper ages over the years. Holes and tears are a typical part of the wear and tear of the house.
You can easily fix this problem with leftover matching wallpaper. Just follow these simple steps and those tears will be nonexistent in no time:

– Carefully, using a sharp razor blade, strip off the torn area and the paper surrounding the area.
– With scissors, cut a corresponding portion from the leftover wallpaper.
– Cover the back of the new patch of wallpaper with a thin coat of wallpaper paste.
– Affix the new portion of wallpaper to the wall, using a damp cloth to even it out.

Seam Openings

Seam openings can be the effect of any of the following:

– Too much rolling of seams forcing wallpaper paste from behind wallcovering
– Not enough paste applied to edges when installing wallpaper
– Letting the paste dry on edges during installation

A simple solution to this problem would be to apply wallpaper paste or adhesive to the wall following these steps:

– Fill squeeze bottle with wallpaper paste or adhesive
– Apply the spout of the squeeze bottle under the edge of the wallpaper
– Apply a squirt of paste to any seam openings, adding a small amount of pressure
– Wipe away excess adhesive or paste with damp cloth

Curling and Loose Ends

These problems are another typical part of household wear and tear. They can be caused by simple slip-ups including the following:

– Installing wallpaper without proper preparation
– Not enough paste or adhesive applied
– Temperature caused adhesive to dry too quickly

This problem is common and can be easily taken care of by applying more wallpaper adhesive to the edges of the wallpaper.

Bubbles & Blisters

Another typical problem in installing wallpaper is the appearance of bubbles and blisters in the wallcovering. This may be an effect of:
– Not using enough paste during installation
– Not using a roller to smooth out the strip of wallpaper smoothly against the wall
– Not following the proper steps to prepare the surface of the wall before installation
– Not allowing strips to relax before continuing installation
– Applying wallpaper in places below 50 degrees F

The solution to eliminating bubbles and blisters is simple. Small bubbles can be puncture and flattened. On the other hand, large bubbles can be opened to add more adhesive and then patted flat.

See Through

In some cases, wallpaper is too thin and tends to be almost transparent, causing images on the wall to be seen. In this case, the solution would be to prepare the wall ahead of time. If the wallpaper may be seen through, applying a pigmented wallcovering primer to the wall will eliminate this problem. Lining paper should also be used in extreme cases.

Reduce Carpet Wear using This Cleaning Tips

The most ideal approach to save the life of your cover is by legitimate routine cleaning. Soil in your cover turns out to be unpleasant like sandpaper. By venturing on the cover, we crush earth further into the cover filaments, making minor slices that cause the cover to destroy snappier. The accompanying aide will give tips on safeguarding the life of new cover longer.

Vacuum the Carpet Regularly

The most central piece of cover care is vacuuming your cover on an exhaustive and customary routine timetable. Truth be told, concentrates on have demonstrated that it really take an entire seven reiterations of vacuuming to dispense with the majority of the free earth from the cover. The best vacuum to utilize while fulfilling this would be a less-overwhelming, upright vacuum more clean. To completely clean the cover, your vacuum cleaner ought to have solid suction and be outfitted with a vibrating gadget to relax soil.

Immediately Eliminate Any Carpet Stains

Next to thoroughly vacuuming the carpet is cleaning any stains as soon as they are seen. The faster the stain is taken care of, the easier it is to get rid of. The longer the stain is ignored, the harder a time you will have to remove it. Using the correct cleaning materials is important. The wrong materials will make the stain worse than it already is.

Clean the Carpet Regularly

To ensure that your carpet is properly cared for, your carpet should be cleaned routinely every 12 to 18 months. Your carpet should also be cleaned after events where a lot of people have been involved, like remodeling or parties. Taking care of this immediately will be better in the long run.
Below are some of the common frequently asked questions and answers to your carpet care questions:

Q: Are advertisements for “3 rooms for $49” legit?
A: This type of deal usually depends on the company. 9 times out of 10, this would be a quick, not solid carpet cleaning. Companies like this usually sell you extras in conjunction with carpet cleaning to make a real profit.

Q: I don’t have time/energy to thoroughly vacuum my carpet on routine schedule. What else can I do?
A: For lost of people, vacuum becomes too tiresome and time-consuming to thoroughly complete. If you don’t have the time or not enough energy, you should consider have your carpet professionally cleaned by a service. If you are strapped for cash, try checking into having a nephew or neighborhood youth to get the job done.

Q: When having my carpet cleaned last, I was enticed by a flat three room rate and was charged substantially high for steps. Are these types of extra charges routine?
A: Some cleaning services charge extra for more laborious tasks such as stairs, Bargain firms are known to charge the highest prices for extra tasks like this one. Extra charges like this are the way of bargain firms to make their profits. Up front firms are the best choice in professional service.

Q: Should I pay extra for deodorizing pet-odor?
A: The best form of deodorizing the carpet is in fact cleaning it. If a smell stays in the carpet, odor-causing factors have made their way deep into the carpet padding. If this smell persists in your carpet, deodorizing will not help other than for a cover-up smell. The only way to correct this is to buy new carpet.

Carpet Installation

Introducing another cover all alone isn’t as troublesome a deed as you may think. Yes, it’s actual that one of your greatest difficulties will get the right instruments expected to handle the establishment employment, for example, a seaming iron, however you can basically lease this and some other devices you’ll require at your nearby home change store. Note: It’s a smart thought to get comfortable with every one of the instruments expected to do the cover establishment work before you utilize them.

Alongside finding the right apparatuses, likely the greatest test you’ll have with regards to your cover establishment venture is picking the right sort of cover to introduce. The sort of cover you ought to pick is one that best suits your necessities. This implies you ought to consider your value extend, your kids, your pets, and perhaps your ungainly streak that has gotten you uninvited to numerous home gatherings.

There are some essential issues you have to consider when you’re picking a cover. The most imperative are the cover’s heap profundity, weave and material. When you think cover think as far as its toughness. In any case, in case you’re a steady redecorator, don’t spend heaps of cash for a strong cover in light of the fact that in a couple of years, it won’t be there.

Carpet Materials

New carpet is great for sprucing up a room. Carpet calls to mind comfort, luxury and style. It’s quiet underfoot and insulates well from cold. On the aesthetic side, you have many color options to choose from. And there are many styles and an array of materials available.
Here some examples of materials:

Acrylic is a synthetic fiber that is closest to wool. It comes in an array of colors and does not usually fade from sunlight exposure over time. Acrylic is soil and wear resistant, does not hold static, easy to clean, resilient against mildew and moths, and is not terribly expensive. But acrylic carpet does not hold up as well with overall wear and tear as other carpet materials.

Nylon is the most common carpet material used. It is very durable, although it may fade over time from sunlight exposure. It does not hold static. It is easier to clean than wool. This is important because you may not need to pay for professional carpet cleaning as often, however, you will pay for these great qualities as the price of nylon carpet is often on the more expensive side of the spectrum.

Polyester is not as durable and crush resistant as wool and nylon, and it is subject to fading over time from sunlight exposure. Yet polyester is resistant to moisture, is available in an array of textures and colors, and is less expensive than both wool and nylon.

Polypropylene Olefin carpet was used primarily in basements and as outdoor flooring because of its high resistance to moisture, staining and static. Depending on the pile, polypropylene olefin carpet may hold up very well underfoot (no footprints left behind). Plus, it is easy to clean and is probably the least expensive carpet material available.

Wool carpet is extremely durable, resilient (does not leave footprints), easy to clean, great for high moisture areas, and depending upon the pile it is good for high-traffic areas. It requires high maintenance, tends to hold static, and is often very pricey.

Tools and Materials You’ll Probably Need (listed in alphabetical order):

Carpet of choice (sized for your job)
Carpet knife
Carpet padding
Chalk line
Duct tape
Gripper edge
Heavy scissors
Knee kicker (rented from carpet manufacturer)
Masonry nails
Measuring tape
Power stretcher (rented from carpet manufacturer)
Rolling pin
Row cutter
Safety glasses
Saw or shears
Seaming iron (rented from carpet manufacturer)
Seaming tape
Stair tool
Staple gun
Strip cutter
Tackless strip
Utility knife
Wall trimmer
Work gloves

Prepare the Floor

Before you install your new carpet, you need to prep your floors. Begin the floor preparation by cleaning your surface area.

This means if you are laying carpet down on wooden floors or removing old carpet to install a new one, you should sweep and/or vacuum the area well to ensure that the area is free of dirt and debris. If you are installing carpet directly over concrete, however, it is extra important that the installation area is as dry as possible, and that it will not be subject to excess moisture, which can ruin your new carpet. So bottom line: in order for the new carpet to be laid correctly, you must have the installation area dry and as flat as possible.

More about prep work…

Now that your area is prepped, use your pry bar to remove the old carpet from the tackless strip. Fold up the old carpet and move it out of the room. But don’t get rid of the tackless strip or the carpet pad underneath the old carpet. If the tackless strip and carpet pad are still in good shape, you can reuse them.

The Carpet Padding

Your carpet padding is just as important as the carpet itself. Why? Because a good carpet pad creates a good cushioned layer underfoot, but a great carpet pad will create a resilient cushioned layer underfoot, provide good insulation from cold, help noise reduction, and prolong the life of your carpet.

Padding is sold in a variety of thicknesses, densities and weights to provide the right feel and to protect the carpet from premature wear. Always use a quality backing but remember that thicker is not always better. For example, you should not use carpet padding thicker than 3/8 inch in heavy traffic areas, including on your steps and in your hallways.

Make sure the carpet pads you use in these areas are dense and heavy but not too thick or lightweight. Anything too lightweight will flex too much underfoot and this can be dangerous. To avoid purchasing the wrong carpet pad, test out the carpet you plan to install by going to a showroom and walking across your carpet sample with different padding samples underneath. This will help you get a realistic feel for what your carpet will feel like before you purchase it.

Step-by-Step Guide To Installing Carpet

Caution: To protect your hands, be sure you always wear heavy work gloves or leather gloves and safety glasses when installing or handling the tackless strips.

Step 1: Installing The Tackless Strips!

Cut your tackless strip using a saw or sears so there is a strip to fit the length of each wall. Starting in the corner of the room, use at least two masonry nails per tackless strip to nail the tackless strips down around the room. Make sure you leave a 2/3” gap between the tackless strip and wall for your carpet and padding.

Note: you have successfully nailed strips around the entire room when the strips unite at the corners and the “sharp raised teeth” in each strip used to hold the carpet in place are facing the wall. If you are installing carpet over concrete, you can nail the tackless strips right into the concrete subfloor. To install new carpet over tile flooring, remove the tiles where you are nailing the tackless strips.

Step 2: Install Carpet Padding

Cut the carpet padding into strips. Each strip needs to be long enough to fit the perimeter of the room. Each strip should also cover every tackless strip along each wall. With the waffle side of the padding facing up, use your staple gun to put in staples along the edges of the carpet padding every six inches. If you are installing carpet padding over concrete, you need to affix the padding to the floor with adhesive. Do this by applying carpet pad adhesive around the pad ends and letting it dry.

Your carpet padding seams should not overlap. To make sure the seams do not overlap, butt the strips of padding against each other to create one smooth seam then tape the pieces together. Cut and tape (with duct tape) all the padding until your entire floor is covered. In order for your carpet edges to fit neatly under your room’s baseboards, you need to allow about a 1/2″ gap between the strip and the wall when installing the padding. Trim any excess padding with your utility knife.

Step 3: Measure, Cut and Lay the Carpet

Measure the length and width of your room. Then take your utility knife and cut the carpet (turn it face down when cutting) from the backside approximately 5 to 6 inches longer than your room’s dimensions. Trim the carpet’s excess. To do so, lay each carpet piece over each other so that they match up at the edges. It is important to cut the carpet in the same direction the pile is facing. This goes for how to lay the carpet as well—in the direction of its pile.

Step 4: Cut the Carpet Seam

Match up the edges of the carpet allowing approximately 2 inches of extra carpet at the base of the wall. Mark a chalk line on the underside of the excess carpet edge and cut a clean, even seam line. Then take the top piece and fold it over the bottom piece. This will be your guide to cutting a clean, even seam on the bottom piece this time.

Step 5: Cut a length of seaming tape and center it under the seam.

To make the seams, cut a piece of hot-melt seaming tape to length. The adhesive side of the tape should be facing up. Center the tape under the carpet seam and butt them up against each other. Use a seaming iron (carpet iron) to heat the adhesive tape by slowly passing the iron down over the tape. As the adhesive melts, pinch the carpet pieces together over the tape. Then take your rolling pin and go over the seam to get it as smooth as possible.

Step 6: Affix the Carpet

Use the stair tool (knee kicker) to affix the carpet in the corner first. Dig the teeth of the stair tool into the carpet about 1 inch from the wall, give a swift kick of your knee into the cushioned end of the stair stool and hook the carpet to the tackless strip.

Step 7: Use the Power Stretcher to Attach the Carpet

Now that the corner is hooked, you are going to take your carpet stretcher and pull the carpet at the opposite side of the room. Here’s how:

1. You place the base of your power stretcher at the wall, but use a leftover piece of carpet behind it to pad the wall.

2. Insert the head of the power stretcher about six inches from the wall and have the foot of the power stretcher rest against the wall.

3. Now dig the (head) teeth into the carpet, press down on the lever, and lock the stretcher into place.

4. Stretch the carpet by pulling the carpet toward the other wall’s tackless strip.

5. Use your stair tool to attach the carpet to the tackless strip.

Continue stretching the carpet’s edges until they are attached to all the tackless trips in your room.

Step 8: Trimming the Excess

Adjust the wall trimmer to the carpet thickness and cut away any excess carpet along each wall. Trim the last few inches with a sharp utility knife.

Step 9: Tidying the Edges

Take your stair tool and tuck the edges of the carpet between the wall and the tackless strips, right under the baseboards.

Step 10: Secure the Carpet in Place

Turn your attention to the piece of carpet under the doorway. Trim the excess carpet. Now nail a metal strip over the carpet’s edges to secure the carpet into place. Or install a gripper edge.

Step 11: It’s installed!

Now that the carpet is installed, take your seam roller and run it along the seam. This will help the nap of the carpet pieces blend together so that the pieces look like one seamless piece of carpet.